Portfolio - Special Edition Switzerland
17 Special Edition Switzerland On previous visits to the Lavaux, I rented an e-bike to get around, which is an excellent way to experience the quiet charm of the landscape and get a bit of a battery boost to help climbs the steep hills. The Lavaux alone includes the appellations of Lutry, Villette, Épesses, Calamin grand cru, Dézaley grand cru (vignoble de la commune de Puidoux), Saint-Saphorin, Chardonne, and Vevey-Montreux, so there’s plenty to see. A few favorite wineries include Blaise Duboux in Epesses and Pierre-Luc Leyvraz in the equally bucolic hamlet of St-Saphorin. Brothers Jean-François and Jacque Potterat are sixth-generation vintners who manage Vins Potterat in the picturesque 10th-century village of Cully, and one of a handful or producers making Plant Robert. The 800-year old vineyards of Les Frères Dubois are adjacent to the Cully train station. But the best bet is to do what Angela and I did and kill a few hours by sipping, which we did at Domaine Croix Duplex’s terrace set in the vineyard terraces and overlooking the ever-changing alps as the background. If you don’t have the time for that, pop into Rivaz’s Vinorama, the region’s premier wine museum, shop, and tasting room tucked discreetly under Lavaux’s hillsides. While you can easily find good quality wine for $15 to $20 a bottle, upgrading to $35 per bottle will yield a significant upgrade. Also, unlike Napa Valley and Burgundy, it’s a must to call ahead to arrange tastings. MARCHÉ The area’s marché (markets) are another way to taste Romandie. While not as affordable or convivial as France’s marchés, Swiss markets are more relaxed and often give you a chance to chat with the farmers and purveyors most of whom are very chatty and approachable. I’m amazed by how big Lausanne’s marché du centre-ville is. Instead of occupying one street, it sprawls across the entire old city and up and down its hilly cobbled streets every Wednesday and Saturday morning. I particularly love the density of cheese, bread, and mushroom vendors located atop the hill at Place de la Riponne. Lausanne’s department store Manor, has an excellent food section too that blends right into the marché oftentimes offering similar products for much less. Other markets in Canton Vaud include the Vevey market held on Tuesdays and Saturdays, and Ouchy (located at the lake side of Lausanne) held from April to September every Sunday. CHEESE AND DESSERT As you travel around the region, you will undoubtedly see cows grazing the rich meadows and pastures of the hillsides. They are the heroines of Switzerland’s high-quality cheese production. Alpine animal husbandry is one of the country’s biggest industries spawning a robust $60 million export economy. The prized Swiss cheeses are not necessarily from the Lake Geneva area, but they are served there. Explore your senses at these outstanding regional restaurants RESTAURANT DE L’HÔTEL DE VILLE The tasting menu here is a treasure trove of nostalgia and flavour, riffing on French haute with heavy punches of alpine resourcefulness. restaurantcrissier.com ANNE-SOPHIE PIC This restaurant takes inspiration from local produce with flowery creations like soft-boiled egg, roast geranium, and sudachi foam and blue lobster with nasturtium couli. brp.ch AUBERGE DU RAISIN Auberge du Raisin in Cully delivers doses of old-world dining. Waiters char aged steaks on the dining room’s fireplace, prepare flambés table-side, and drench morels and white asparagus in Mornay sauce. aubergeduraisin.ch EAT WELL
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