A visit to &Beyond Ngala Tented Camp feels like receiving a warm embrace from close friends – even if it’s your first time to South Africa.
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After a six-month closure for an extensive refurbishment, the tented camp once again welcomes guests to this secluded part of the world. Led by the affable lodge manager Dennis Shabangu, the professional staff, largely from the local community, greet you at the newly renovated lobby lounge. There are nine tented suites set on raised platforms and designed to blend into the riverside trees, which minimises impact on the natural environment.
Nestled within &Beyond Ngala Private Game Reserve, a private concession that shares unfenced borders with the renowned Kruger National Park, the luxury camp offers plenty of opportunities to observe all manner of wildlife. After all, Kruger is the largest wildlife sanctuary in South Africa, home to more species of large mammals than any other African game reserve.
Guests get to enjoy the exclusivity of game drives within this concession area, along with the option of guided bush walks. In the vicinity, you might spot curious young impalas grazing outside your tent. Or be awakened by an extroverted baboon's call in the early hours of dawn.
- CIRCLE OF LIFE
- DAILY FEASTS
Circle of Life
At 5am, a gentle knock on the butler’s hatch signals the start of the day. You open the double-latched windowsill and find a wooden tray – with a flask of hot chai, freshly squeezed orange juice, and dates. After the quick morning booster, make your way to the open-top 4×4 safari vehicle, and set off to track the Big Five and their many cousins.
During our trip, we were guided by &Beyond’s expert ranger Marcus who works in tandem with highly experienced tracker Ernie. As Marcus drove along the track and monitored the area, he shared more about the remote terrain and wildlife.
Rangers and trackers like them are trained to seek out animal footprints, leading guests to extraordinary wildlife sightings. They also ensure guests' safety and provide fascinating insights about the environment. Exploring the area with them is not just an adventure, it’s engaging and educational.
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Marcus told us that his top three animals are the leopard, lion, and hyena. He believes that hyenas are often misunderstood. “They are clever. Hyenas can eat the skin and crush bones of the weak animals,” he said. In other words, they are nature’s clean-up crew. Meanwhile, Ernie admires the cheetah as they are sophisticated creatures that only eat fresh meat and never return to a kill (versus scavengers like vultures that mostly feed on dead animals).
The dynamic duo rarely veer off-road due to certain park regulations. But if they decide to venture off in search of wildlife encounters, it’s done sensitively. One morning, we had the chance to drive through the remote bush, crushing vegetation along the way to follow a female leopard. She had just secured her prey, and with swift yet graceful agility, leapt up a tree with the baby impala in her mouth. Perched safely above, she remained vigilant, ensuring her meal was protected from other predators. Elusive and incredibly difficult to spot, leopards are among the most prized sightings. On another day, we were lucky enough to see a different leopard, satiated and napping in between the tree branches.
Ngala (meaning lion in local Shangaan language) lives up to its namesake, with the reserve drawing several large prides of these powerful cats. If you’re ultra fortunate, you might encounter two white lions, part of the famous Birmingham pride. We learnt that there are only four white lions known to exist in the wild, with two residing at Ngala/Kruger – a six-year-old female and a cub. Given that Kruger is home to around 1,500 lions, encountering these rare white lions is an exceptional experience. When we were there, the pride had ventured into another area. But we saw another smaller family of lions resting under the "magic guarri" tree (an indigenous species valued for its medicinal, culinary, and dyeing properties).
Along the way, we caught a glimpse of a solo white rhino grazing amid bushes, while trying its best to hide from our nosy cameras. There are 3,000 white rhinos in Kruger (23,000 across Africa), but the population is sadly decreasing. Although authorities have implemented measures to combat poaching in and around Kruger, it is still a hotspot for this illegal activity.
During our drive, we were duly astounded when a herd of elephants crossed our paths, watching our jeep with curiosity. Another evening we stopped at a clifftop and witnessed a magnificent sight. There was large parade of these gentle giants, including playful teenagers and babies, lining up at a watering hole, joyfully splashing and quenching their thirst.
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- CIRCLE OF LIFE
- DAILY FEASTS
Daily Feasts
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Each day at Ngala includes two game drives. In between, Marcus would surprise us with stops at scenic spots for a tea break, allowing us to stretch our legs and soak in the serene landscape.
One evening, we were treated to cocktail hour in the wilderness. The F&B team had assembled a portable bar lined with local gins, bubbly, and snacks. Sipping sundowners against the backdrop of a breathtaking sunset with only the sounds of the bush around us was nothing short of magical.
Another morning, we were treated to a breakfast elegantly set up in the wild. The chefs were grilling sausages, golden potatoes, earthy mushrooms, and thick bread over open fire. Another large pan was brimming with shakshuka topped with fresh eggs. As we tucked into our hearty meal on linen-clad tables, we saw a family of nyalas grazing nearby.
Back at the camp, evenings began with refreshing cocktails prepared by our butlers at the lobby bar. This was followed by sumptuous dinners on the terrace or extended decks overlooking the riverbed which remains dry through much of the year. The dishes created by head chef Oscar Marimane, who has been with the &Beyond family for 20 years, are generously portioned, fresh, and wholesome. For lunch, you might get more casual fare like ostrich and brie burger, or local smoked trout with fresh salads. Essentially, you will never go hungry here.
After a day of exploration, luxury awaits at the tented camp. Guests can indulge in a spa treatment in the newly added facilities, take a dip in the inviting pool, or lounge by the expanded pool deck. Shaded salas provide the perfect setting for sunbathing or refreshing cocktails.
On our final night, we had the opportunity to enjoy a lantern-lit bush dinner with our friendly rangers. Beneath the starlit sky, we exchanged stories, cultural tales, amusing anecdotes, and laughter over barbecued game meat, stew, vegetables, and fine wines.
As the night winds down, security staff escort us back to our accommodation. The newly designed tents boast outdoor decks for relaxation, along with redesigned bathrooms with both indoor and outdoor showers, as well as outdoor bathtubs. The contemporary air-conditioned interior features plush furnishings and a fully stocked personal bar with delicious cookies and snacks.
Opened year-round, &Beyond Ngala Tented Camp is an intimate retreat, perfect for couples or small groups seeking an exclusive safari experience, luxe amenities, and private butler service. Each day brings new adventures and wildlife encounters, but what remains constant is the impeccable service, warmth, and care from the team.
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