SINGAPORE'S NEW GUARD

Singapore's New Guard: Dylan Ong, The Masses and Choon Hoy Parlor

by Portfolio Magazine
06 Aug 2024

Dylan Ong, Chef-Owner of The Masses and Choon Hoy Parlor has made it his mission to make good food and ingredients accessible to all.

There’s no doubt that Singapore is a hotbed for innovation, fueled by visionaries and forward-thinking entrepreneurs who are always one step ahead of the game. This month, we spoke to a handful of individuals who identified market gaps ripe for enhancement – from how we enjoy coffee to the current state of F&B retail – and took it upon themselves to transform something good into something even better. The result: Brands that inspire and excite, proudly bearing the “Made in Singapore” distinction. 

When you struck out on your own as an F&B entrepreneur, what was the casual dining scene in Singapore like and what did you want to change about it? What were your personal and professional goals at that time?
When I first started out, casual restaurants were really casual. We’re talking spots like Pasta Mania, Aston’s, or even places like Café Cartel, which are the restaurants most of us grew up with. Back then, casual French dining was largely limited to a few pioneering stalls, with a few upscale French options such as Point au Jardin.

In those days, you wouldn't find fancy ingredients in casual restaurants. Imported produce, that we so commonly use now, like caviar, ikura, foie gras, wagyu, or even good quality grain-fed beef were simply not on the menu. Ten to 14 years ago, these were ingredients found only at high-end establishments and the dining scene lacked a middle ground between the two extremes.

For me, as a young person with a limited budget but a love for eating out, I started to question this unspoken rule. Why did foie gras and fine dining techniques have to be exclusive to expensive restaurants? I wanted to change that. I wanted to make these experiences accessible to everyone, especially for those in their formative years, even if it was just a single experience.

My professional goal at the time was simple: If I wasn’t going to establish a culinary career in France, I would open a small restaurant in Singapore that offered high-end cuisine at affordable prices. The latter was what I took on.

This professional goal soon evolved into a strong personal one. Beyond just earning a living, my main objective became to feed the masses. Ever since, this philosophy and belief has been deeply ingrained in me.


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A selection of dishes from The Masses

Democratizing food has been a pillar of your business since launching Saveur over a decade ago and has now evolved to The Masses. Why is this important to you?
I know how it feels to want to eat good food yet not have the means to afford it. I vividly recall walking past restaurants and wondering how much I would need to earn to dine there or where I would have to travel to be able to enjoy this dining experience.

I want the next generation, as they earn their first salaries, to be able to experience quality casual fine dining without those same worries. I want families to be able to enjoy and educate their children about food without breaking the bank.

Can you share some missteps and triumphs in your career that allowed you to grow as a chef and restaurateur? Also, how does it inform what you do as a leader?
I must admit that I've certainly made my share of missteps, but one key lesson stands out: The importance of prudence. When a restaurant is successful and bustling, it's easy to overspend unwisely or mismanage the budget. I learnt that no matter how successful a restaurant becomes, being prudent is the way to go.

My greatest triumph has been nurturing two brands, Savuer and The Masses, into enduring brands that continue to embody my philosophy of serving delicious food, made with great produce and technique, to the masses at accessible prices. My hope is that Choon Hoy Parlor will also reach this benchmark.

These experiences have allowed me to grow both as a person and a chef. To successfully navigate the challenges of this business, I adopt the approach to always think for the people, to stay updated with culinary trends, and to maintain a strong foundation in business. As a leader, I am one who always thinks ahead. I realized that the key to longevity is to mould and nurture young talent to be even better than I am.


(Related: Singapore's New Guard - Andre Huber, Huber's Butchery)

What specific goals have you set for your two latest concepts, The Masses and Choon Hoy Parlor? How do you want your customers to feel after dining there and what kind of impact do you want to make in Singapore’s very vibrant dining scene?
Since launching in 2017, our vision for The Masses has always been to stay ahead of the times with our food and service. We pride ourselves in what we do and serving up innovative Franco-Asian cuisine. Ultimately, our goal every day of every month is to consistently churn out delicious food at affordable prices to make sure the masses are well fed.

Choon Hoy Parlor shares a similar ethos, but with a focus on creating a unique Singaporean cuisine we call "Singapore soul food", something we all take pride in.

We strive to connect with our customers, making sure they always leave feeling happy with the food, service, and culture. By experiencing the soul and personal touch of our place, we also want them to leave with a sense of pride in our local brand. The impact I want to make is to continue serving good food to feed the masses at accessible prices, no matter the economic climate or my own circumstances.

As an entrepreneur who has enjoyed relative success in your chosen path, what advise do you have for other young entrepreneurial hopefuls in Singapore, particularly those who are feeling lost and stuck?
My advice is to persevere and keep on going. Never take the easy way out when it comes to learning and always stay true to your vision. Remember that there is always a solution in life. Most importantly, never give up, always have a blueprint, and remember that where there's a will, there's a way.