Let’s be honest, few brands generate as much attention and buzz around a new release as Patek Philippe. But with the introduction of an entirely new collection – the first in 25 years – featuring a notably divisive design (judging by online comments), the brand’s latest offering might just be the biggest news of the year. Aside from the unfortunate yet amusing leak in a Fortune magazine ad, Patek Philippe has officially unveiled its newest family, the Cubitus. And regardless of mixed opinions, it’s clear that a fresh addition was long overdue.
At first blush, the Cubitus just looks like a Nautilus that’s been hammered into a square shape. The parallels are hard to ignore, after all – the horizontal ribbing on the dial, the bracelet with polished center links, the case finishing, and dial colors are all identical to Patek Philippe’s most coveted model. Though not explicitly stated, the influence of Gerald Genta (the designer of the original Nautilus) is undeniable – especially when comparing it to the square watches from Genta’s own brand, Gerald Charles.
Regardless, the Cubitus does have plenty of character of its own. But first, the hard facts: There are three debut references, comprising two time and date models in steel or bi-metallic steel and rose gold, and a platinum reference with an all-new complicated movement.
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The Ref. 5821A features an olive green dial, while the Ref. 5821/1AR comes with a dark blue dial. Both measure 44.5mm by 44.9mm and are appreciably slim, standing at just 8.3mm in height. The indices are crafted from gold and filled with white luminescent material for enhanced visibility. The bracelet is integrated – an unusual choice in an era where interchangeable straps are almost expected – but it includes a micro-adjustment mechanism and is secured by a push-button folding clasp. The two-part case is fastened with two screws on either side of the case back.
The time and date models are powered by the familiar 26-330 S C, found on at least 30 other Patek Philippe references, and runs at a frequency of 4Hz with a maximum power reserve of 45 hours.
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Bringing in new technical finesse is the platinum Cubitus Grand Date Ref. 5822P-001. The new 240 PS CI J LU is an automatic calibre with a 22K gold micro-rotor and six patents to its name. It offers hours, minutes, and seconds, along with day, date, and moon phase displays. While the asymmetry of the dial may take some getting used to, the real delight lies in the adjustment of the various indicators. You can set them at any time without risking damage to the movement, and all displays change simultaneously and instantaneously in just 18 milliseconds.
Given the platinum case, pairing it with a lightweight synthetic strap rather than a platinum bracelet is a practical choice. And for those familiar with the brand, it’s worth noting that all platinum Patek Philippe watches feature a discreet diamond embedded in the bezel at 6 o’clock. In a playful twist, the Cubitus Grand Date opts for a baguette-cut diamond (instead of the traditional round cut) for the first time, likely to complement the watch’s angular design.
Love it or loathe it, there’s no denying that the Cubitus is a bold yet essential step for a brand that seldom deviates from its tried-and-true successes (of which it has plenty). It’s an unexpected move, but one that we hope will lead to more exciting variations and horological innovations in the near future.
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