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WATCHES & STYLE
A New Decade of Watchmaking
by Katherine Arteche
21 Jul 2020
21 Jul 2020
Timepieces worth keeping an eye out for in 2020
A new decade marks a new generation of tastemakers and innovators as seen in these latest creations from the world of watchmaking.
- BREGUET MARINE TOURBILLON MARCHANTE EQUATION 5887
- BLANCPAIN VILLERET ULTRAPLATE
- CHOPARD L.U.C PERPETUAL TWIN
- OMEGA DEVILLE TOURBILLON NUMBERED EDITION
- ZENITH CHRONOMASTER REVIVAL “SHADOW”
- BELL & ROSS BR 03-92 HUD
- TAG HEUER GRAND PRIX DE MONACO HISTORIQUE LIMITED EDITION
- RADO CAPTAIN COOK BRONZE AUTOMATIC
- MB&F + L’EPéE 1839 STARFLEET EXPLORER
It will be a pretentious thing to say that an equation of time on your wristwatch is a necessity – it isn’t. Is it, however, a complication you wish you could have, an indication you can view on the daily, and more so because it’s such a unique addition that embodies your admiration for both physics and history? Yes, yes and yes.
The equation of time (EoT) is essentially a calculation that determines the difference between two kinds of solar time. Discussing the position of the sun is not a topic best suited for casual conversation over a cup of coffee but there’s no denying that its presence in a timepiece is unwelcomed.
While EoTs are reserved for more complex masterpieces with a separate display, Breguet’s Tourbillon Marchante Equation 5887 displays the equation of time in conjunction with the main hours, allowing one to determine the difference between solar time and mean local time from their different positions.
The new slate grey dial adds a tonal contrast to the warmth of the red gold case, and the large tourbillon display represents the small seconds, giving a little exposure to the 581DPE caliber.
- BREGUET MARINE TOURBILLON MARCHANTE EQUATION 5887
- BLANCPAIN VILLERET ULTRAPLATE
- CHOPARD L.U.C PERPETUAL TWIN
- OMEGA DEVILLE TOURBILLON NUMBERED EDITION
- ZENITH CHRONOMASTER REVIVAL “SHADOW”
- BELL & ROSS BR 03-92 HUD
- TAG HEUER GRAND PRIX DE MONACO HISTORIQUE LIMITED EDITION
- RADO CAPTAIN COOK BRONZE AUTOMATIC
- MB&F + L’EPéE 1839 STARFLEET EXPLORER
Blancpain Villeret Ultraplate
Blancpain is turning all its attention to one of its most classic collections, the Villeret, one that’s named after the quaint birthplace of the manufacture. Its aesthetic choices from the double-stepped bezel to the Roman numerals and leaf-shaped hands are just a few of its signature features that make up this classic watch.
Two models get makeovers in colors and size, first of which is the Villeret Ultraplate that now comes in a blue dial with an 18K red gold case. Matching red gold appliques complement the dark gleam of the sunray-brush finished dial. The Villeret Quantième Complet model also gets the same treatment, with matching hints of red gold on the moonphase aperture and date wheel.
The original interpretations of these Villeret models have also been fashioned in a new size, with stainless steel and red gold cases in 38mm. Gem-set models comprise brilliant diamonds set on the bezel and dial, and bracelet options include black or brown alligator straps, as well as mille mailles bracelets in stainless steel or red gold.
- BREGUET MARINE TOURBILLON MARCHANTE EQUATION 5887
- BLANCPAIN VILLERET ULTRAPLATE
- CHOPARD L.U.C PERPETUAL TWIN
- OMEGA DEVILLE TOURBILLON NUMBERED EDITION
- ZENITH CHRONOMASTER REVIVAL “SHADOW”
- BELL & ROSS BR 03-92 HUD
- TAG HEUER GRAND PRIX DE MONACO HISTORIQUE LIMITED EDITION
- RADO CAPTAIN COOK BRONZE AUTOMATIC
- MB&F + L’EPéE 1839 STARFLEET EXPLORER
Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Twin
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The debut of Chopard’s L.U.C Perpetual Twin marked a significant milestone for manufacture, having been released during its 20th anniversary. At that time, in 2016, perpetual calendar are heralded as among the most complex complications (and they still are) that such movements were only encased in precious metals. However, Chopard chose to house it in a stainless steel case, and the notion that high-complications-are-only-for-precious-cases started to shift, allowing one to have the best of both worlds: a high-end movement in an everyday watch.
The L.U.C Perpetual Twin now has two new models, a blue-dialed version in stainless steel, and for the first time, in 18K rose gold with a gray dial. The sunray-brushed finish lends the dial its muted color, and each version is complemented with blue and brown leather straps.
The watch functions on the automatic-winding L.U.C 96-22-L calibre, a COSC-certified movement that powers the main hours, calendar functions and the provision up to 65 hours of power reserve.
- BREGUET MARINE TOURBILLON MARCHANTE EQUATION 5887
- BLANCPAIN VILLERET ULTRAPLATE
- CHOPARD L.U.C PERPETUAL TWIN
- OMEGA DEVILLE TOURBILLON NUMBERED EDITION
- ZENITH CHRONOMASTER REVIVAL “SHADOW”
- BELL & ROSS BR 03-92 HUD
- TAG HEUER GRAND PRIX DE MONACO HISTORIQUE LIMITED EDITION
- RADO CAPTAIN COOK BRONZE AUTOMATIC
- MB&F + L’EPéE 1839 STARFLEET EXPLORER
Omega DeVille Tourbillon Numbered Edition
Omega has always been a force to be reckoned with, having the entire Seamaster collection dubbed the “James Bond” watch throughout the movie franchise, and the reputation of the Speedmaster forever ingrained in history as the savior of moon exploration.
Another Omega timepiece has made it to the books, namely the DeVille Tourbillon Numbered Edition, the manufacture’s first Master Chronometer certified manual-winding central tourbillon. This feat literally takes center stage, where the open-worked tourbillon is framed in 18K Sedna gold, Omega’s proprietary alloy, which also makes up the lugs, bezel, caseback, and dial, with the addition of black PVD treatment to the latter.
The new movement in question is the caliber 2640, which comprises a titanium tourbillon cage that completes a full revolution every minute. The importance of this technical feat is attributed to the movement’s magnetic resistance up to 15,000 gauss, certifying the watch in recognition of its optimum precision and performance. The caseback display leaves little to the imagination as a full sapphire crystal exhibits the symmetrical arrangement of the bridges and mainplate, all of which are finished and polished in 18K Sedna gold.
- BREGUET MARINE TOURBILLON MARCHANTE EQUATION 5887
- BLANCPAIN VILLERET ULTRAPLATE
- CHOPARD L.U.C PERPETUAL TWIN
- OMEGA DEVILLE TOURBILLON NUMBERED EDITION
- ZENITH CHRONOMASTER REVIVAL “SHADOW”
- BELL & ROSS BR 03-92 HUD
- TAG HEUER GRAND PRIX DE MONACO HISTORIQUE LIMITED EDITION
- RADO CAPTAIN COOK BRONZE AUTOMATIC
- MB&F + L’EPéE 1839 STARFLEET EXPLORER
Zenith Chronomaster Revival “Shadow”
Zenith has a stellar lineup this year, carrying a momentum that hasn’t slowed down in the slightest since their presence at the inaugural LVMH Watch Week in Dubai earlier in January. The Elite collection found itself in a revival with new modern versions, and the DEFY collection expanded with ladies-exclusive timepieces.
The manufacture has once again reached into its archives and brought back a ghost, or in this case, a “Shadow” in the form of the Chronomaster Revival. The monochromatic colorway would have classified the timepiece as just another coolesque, stealthy watch on the market, but the ingenious micro-blasted finish on the titanium case (including the crown and pushers) would have anyone do a double take, and admit that the sub counters in grey creates a clean contrast as well.
To say that this creation was a fifty-year project is not technically wrong, since the prototype of a chronograph in blackened steel was found among Charles Vermont’s (the creator of the El Primero caliber) artifacts. The discovery led Zenith to create a timepiece that’s been reimagined and modernized, by fitting an automatic-winding El Primero caliber into the original 1969 case design.
- BREGUET MARINE TOURBILLON MARCHANTE EQUATION 5887
- BLANCPAIN VILLERET ULTRAPLATE
- CHOPARD L.U.C PERPETUAL TWIN
- OMEGA DEVILLE TOURBILLON NUMBERED EDITION
- ZENITH CHRONOMASTER REVIVAL “SHADOW”
- BELL & ROSS BR 03-92 HUD
- TAG HEUER GRAND PRIX DE MONACO HISTORIQUE LIMITED EDITION
- RADO CAPTAIN COOK BRONZE AUTOMATIC
- MB&F + L’EPéE 1839 STARFLEET EXPLORER
Bell & Ross BR 03-92 HUD
We have to give it to Bell & Ross for the witty use of HUD in the name for the new BR 03-92, where HUD stands to mean “head-up display”. Frequent drivers will know this – it’s a transparent display showing the car’s speedometer while you keep your eyes on the road. And primarily, an HUD in the cockpit has the same function, enabling the pilot to view all his information in the same visual field.
While digital displays are regarded as a technological advancement, HUDs were in fact an invention that was prevalent in the 1960s. Military aircraft depended on reticles on radar systems which further developed into more advanced displays including improved scaling and compatibility.
The luminescent dial of the BR 03-92 HUD thus successfully replicates this visual, with a green sapphire crystal to finish. Hours and minutes are divided into respective sector dials, with a rotating hour marker in the centre. All-black rubber and synthetic fabric straps come with the matte black ceramic case, keeping the watch practical and functional even if one had to go outfield.
- BREGUET MARINE TOURBILLON MARCHANTE EQUATION 5887
- BLANCPAIN VILLERET ULTRAPLATE
- CHOPARD L.U.C PERPETUAL TWIN
- OMEGA DEVILLE TOURBILLON NUMBERED EDITION
- ZENITH CHRONOMASTER REVIVAL “SHADOW”
- BELL & ROSS BR 03-92 HUD
- TAG HEUER GRAND PRIX DE MONACO HISTORIQUE LIMITED EDITION
- RADO CAPTAIN COOK BRONZE AUTOMATIC
- MB&F + L’EPéE 1839 STARFLEET EXPLORER
TAG Heuer Grand Prix de Monaco Historique Limited Edition
The annual Monaco Grand Prix would have celebrated its 12th edition this year had it not been for the COVID-19 pandemic, but that didn’t stop TAG Heuer from presenting a special edition timepiece in commemoration of the prestigious racing event.
The Monaco has been synonymous with TAG Heuer ever since Jack Heuer attributed the timepieces to the races in name since the 1950s. Now more than ever, the Monaco Grand Prix de Monaco Historique Limited Edition pays homage to both the race and the country itself. The silver and red dial combination takes its colors from the Monaco flag, as well as the official Monaco Grand Prix emblem. A silver race car is also embedded on the dial at the one o’clock position, a notable detail that’s specially made for these 1,000 units.
The packaging that the watch comes with is designed in classic racing fashion, with a black-and-white checkered pattern that runs around the side of the red box. This anticipated release is available in select TAG Heuer boutiques, with pre-orders made on the website.
- BREGUET MARINE TOURBILLON MARCHANTE EQUATION 5887
- BLANCPAIN VILLERET ULTRAPLATE
- CHOPARD L.U.C PERPETUAL TWIN
- OMEGA DEVILLE TOURBILLON NUMBERED EDITION
- ZENITH CHRONOMASTER REVIVAL “SHADOW”
- BELL & ROSS BR 03-92 HUD
- TAG HEUER GRAND PRIX DE MONACO HISTORIQUE LIMITED EDITION
- RADO CAPTAIN COOK BRONZE AUTOMATIC
- MB&F + L’EPéE 1839 STARFLEET EXPLORER
Rado Captain Cook Bronze Automatic
While blue has been the recent wave of color that the latest timepieces seem to be finding themselves painted in, Rado is heading somewhere closer to earth with theirs. The first stage of their latest “Feel it!” campaign focuses on peaceful moments, where time slows down for us to relax, reflect and refresh. Rado thus releases a curation of green watches, featuring verdant interpretations in each collection including the all-ceramic True Thinline, HyperChrome Automatic and Golden Horse Automatic, both sporting brighter, leaf green dials.
The combination of bronze and high-tech ceramic has been an intriguing one, especially since bronze is known to oxidize in environments of high humidity and moisture producing a desired patina effect. In anticipation of this material change from bronze to teal, the green dial and matching high-tech ceramic bezel is added to the mix, and finished with a leather strap.
- BREGUET MARINE TOURBILLON MARCHANTE EQUATION 5887
- BLANCPAIN VILLERET ULTRAPLATE
- CHOPARD L.U.C PERPETUAL TWIN
- OMEGA DEVILLE TOURBILLON NUMBERED EDITION
- ZENITH CHRONOMASTER REVIVAL “SHADOW”
- BELL & ROSS BR 03-92 HUD
- TAG HEUER GRAND PRIX DE MONACO HISTORIQUE LIMITED EDITION
- RADO CAPTAIN COOK BRONZE AUTOMATIC
- MB&F + L’EPéE 1839 STARFLEET EXPLORER
MB&F + L’Epée 1839 Starfleet Explorer
There are two kinds of people in this world – you’re either a Trekkie or a Star Wars fan, so depending on how the word “Starfleet” made you sit up reading this, that itself is a big tell on which camp you belong to.
It is perhaps no secret that Max Busser is a big fan of science fiction. The MusicMachine2 from 2014 plays tracks from both the Star Wars and Star Trek universe, and in that same year, the first version of the Starfleet was released. Then called the Starfleet Machine, it was a monochromatic table clock that told time via a central dome, with the movement exposed and held up by a stainless steel structure, whose galactic-inspired design could rival the futuristic metropolis of Coruscant.
To mark a new decade, the Starfleet Explorer is created in three new models, blue, red and green. While the design is based off the Starfleet Machine, the movement has slightly evolved; the hour disc is stationary while a rotating anodized hour hand makes a complete rotation every 12 hours. The minutes are read through the same indicator, though the minute disc moves on a revolving radar dish.
Each model is produced in a limited number of 99 pieces each, and is available on MB&F’s eShop.
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