There is something satisfying about returning to a place you have only ever passed through. I had visited Furano twice before, both times in summer and both on relatively short visits. Like many first-time visitors, visiting the famed lavender fields was inevitably part of the itinerary, as were the rolling landscapes and postcard views that have made this part of Hokkaido so recognisable.
On this trip, however, with Nozo Hotel as my base, there was time to look beyond the familiar sights and discover another side of the picturesque city: One shaped by agriculture, food, nature, and the guiltless pleasure of taking things slowly.
Opened in December 2023, Nozo Hotel is located in Kitanomine, in central Furano, with 78 rooms spread across eight categories. Its compact, contemporary rooms use natural tones and materials, giving the property a warm, understated character. The hotel is particularly well positioned for those who want to explore the region rather than simply stay put, with the Kitanomine ski lift just 200m away and the wider Furano and Biei areas within easy reach.
But in the summer, that means swapping skis for bicycles, hiking shoes, or simply a car ride through the countryside. Furano's landscape is inseparable from its agricultural identity and some of the most memorable moments of the trip came from getting closer to what grows here.
At Shimanezumi Farm, for example, we were able to harvest green, purple, and white asparagus, experiencing the vegetables at their seasonal peak rather than simply ordering them off of a restaurant menu. It was a simple, but revealing experience – Furano's appeal is not only in its scenery, but also in the produce that comes from its fertile farmland. Shimanezumi Farm, based in neighbouring Kamifurano, places particular emphasis on asparagus, tomatoes, and other locally grown produce.
That connection between place and plate continues back at Nozo. Shirakaba, the hotel's main restaurant, focuses on Hokkaido ingredients from nearby farms, pastures, and local waters, with Japanese and Western dishes at breakfast and lunch, and sushi and teppanyaki at dinner. During summer, the alfresco terrace also offers the chance to take in the fresh Hokkaido air while dining.
The same philosophy extends to Cou Cou Bakery, where bread is made daily using flour from nearby Biei and local water, while their soft soft serve ice cream uses fresh Hokkaido milk. Meanwhile, Buna Bar & Lounge, designed like a living room around an impressive fireplace, provides a more relaxed place to linger over a drink or coffee.
Elsewhere, a visit to Furano Winery offers another perspective on the region's agricultural heritage. Situated on a hill overlooking the town, the winery produces wine from locally grown grapes and offers visitors an opportunity to learn more about the winemaking process and taste its wines. The setting is particularly rewarding in summer, when the surrounding landscape takes on its characteristic green and purple hues.
At the Furano Cheese Factory, the emphasis shifts from wine to milk, while the experience is a lot more hands-on. Alongside feasting on freshly made ice cream, we enjoyed an outdoor pizza lunch and tried our hand at making fresh ricotta cheese to take home. The factory itself produces a range of cheeses from fresh local milk, while its workshops and food offerings make it a fun and informative addition to a summer itinerary.
Back at Nozo, Sugi Spa provides an altogether different way to unwind. The men's and women's onsen areas feature indoor and outdoor hot baths, cold baths, and saunas, while the gym caters to those who prefer to keep active. After a day spent outdoors, it is an especially welcome place to slow down.
Perhaps that is what makes a longer stay in Furano worthwhile. The region does not have to be approached as a checklist of attractions. Sure there are lavender fields and spectacular mountain views, but there are also farms, wineries, food producers, and stunning stretches of countryside that are waiting to be discovered – if you give yourself the time.
And with a hotel like Nozo providing a comfortable base between excursions, summer in Furano begins to feel less like a stopover and more like a proper escape.
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