Without Pascal Raffy’s vision and intervention, Bovet might have become just another forgotten watch brand with a rich history, but no future. After retiring from a successful pharmaceutical career at 38, Raffy, inspired by his grandfather's teachings on the beauty of mechanical timepieces, channeled his passion for haute horlogerie into reviving the brand.
Since taking over the historic brand, now celebrating its 202nd anniversary, Raffy has transformed Bovet into a fully integrated manufacture, emphasizing astronomical complications and rare handcrafts. Earlier this year, Bovet released the Recital 28 Prowess 1, the first watch in the world to account for daylight saving time.
While in town to celebrate Bovet’s new partnership with Cortina Watch and Sincere Fine Watches, Pascal Raffy takes a moment to reflect on his journey and the essence of true luxury.
What first drew you to the brand?
I was 24 when I discovered the 19th-century pocket watches made by Bovet. My grandfather had 12 of them and I was amazed by their artistry. The decoration, the enameling, the setting of the pearls – these were jewels indicating time. I was 38 when I learned that Bovet needed help, so I decided to join the house and give it a chance to become a true manufacture.
That was in 2001, but it took another five years before you achieved that goal. Tell us how it happened.
In February 2006, my assistant received a call from a very charismatic man who told her, “I have a castle to sell to Mr Raffy”. Turns out, he was the Minister of Economy for the Canton of Neuchatel. But I was not dreaming of castles; I wanted a facility. But he was so persuasive, we ended up going to visit the estate.
When we got there, my assistant was given a file. After reading it, she closes it violently and says, laughing, “Now I know why we are here. According to this dossier, this Castle of Motiers once belonged to the Bovet family in the 13th century.”
Soon after, I was offered an opportunity to buy two more facilities: One for artisans and one for dials. It all happened in one year. At the end of 2005, we had 48 people on the team. By the end of 2006, we had 153. It is destiny.
(Related: Precision and craftsmanship meet in Patek Philippe's new releases)
What were your priorities for the brand once you took over?
I hate revolutions, but I like great evolutions. The house of Bovet was already seated on exceptional watchmaking patrimony. Instead of changing everything, we wanted to better interpret that patrimony. So, when we tell you we do our cases, dials, movements, and hairsprings ourselves, it’s not a marketing thing. It’s our way of paying respect to the house. It is a luxury to be an integrated manufacture because once you get an idea, you have an entire team working together to make it happen, and it’s exciting to see everybody in motion – contributing, objecting, and laughing.
What else does luxury mean to you?
In 2010, a collector approached me wanting a minute repeater tourbillon, with unlimited means at his disposal. However, when he mentioned he would wear it in the swimming pool, I refused to make the timepiece. He was furious. Three years later, he returned with an apology, saying he had come to better understand the true meaning of luxury. Luxury, above all, is about education, not just wealth. The luxury world revolves around three key elements: Clear identity, limited quantities, and craftsmanship. That’s it.
Could you describe the Bovet collector?
It is someone who has nearly nothing left to prove in life. They are not followers. They are opinion-makers. They don’t wear a Bovet on the wrist because they want you to see it. They will put their level of education on their wrist. They know what true watchmaking is.
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