WATCHES & STYLE
Finding the Sweet Spot: The Rise of 38mm Watches
by Charmian Leong
07 Oct 2025
07 Oct 2025
The 38mm case is the watch world’s new Goldilocks, providing style and comfort for an even greater range of wrists.
- PATEK PHILIPPE
- BLANCPAIN
- AUDEMARS PIGUET
- LONGINES
- HAMILTON
REF. 6196P-001
It’s been some time since Patek Philippe released a Calatrava this stylistically pure, and the wait feels justified. The platinum case is paired with a rose-gilt opaline dial, while the black indices, hands, and discreet seconds subdial lend a restrained elegance. A smooth, stepped bezel replaces the Ref. 6119’s hobnail pattern for a more contemporary edge, though both references share the hand-wound 30-255 PS calibre with 65 hours of power reserve and hacking seconds. At just 9.33mm thick, the case remains refined, with a discreet diamond at 6 o’clock quietly signalling its platinum pedigree.
- PATEK PHILIPPE
- BLANCPAIN
- AUDEMARS PIGUET
- LONGINES
- HAMILTON
BLANCPAIN
FIFTY FATHOMS AUTOMATIQUE REF. 5007
The Fifty Fathoms may have gone smaller, but it hasn’t lost an ounce of presence. Compared to its 42 and 45mm siblings, the Ref. 5007 is the most compact version of the legendary diver, yet it retains the same professional chops: Uni-directional bezel, screw-down crown with guards, a screwed case back, and a depth rating of 300m. This stainless-steel model pairs a polished case with a black dial and bezel, anchored by a three-link bracelet alternating brushed and polished surfaces. Inside beats the calibre 1150 with a robust 100- hour power reserve and a silicon balance spring – proof that downsizing hasn’t meant compromise.
- PATEK PHILIPPE
- BLANCPAIN
- AUDEMARS PIGUET
- LONGINES
- HAMILTON
AUDEMARS PIGUET
ROYAL OAK PERPETUAL CALENDAR
Shrinking a perpetual calendar without losing legibility is no easy task, yet Audemars Piguet has pulled it off beautifully. This resized Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar runs on the Calibre 7136 – a reworked version of the 41mm’s Calibre 7138 that forgoes the week indicator on the flange but keeps the 55-hour power reserve and intuitive single-crown operation. Shown here in stainless steel with an icy blue “Grande Tapisserie” dial, the watch measures just 9.4mm thick, making such a mighty complication unexpectedly wearable.
- PATEK PHILIPPE
- BLANCPAIN
- AUDEMARS PIGUET
- LONGINES
- HAMILTON
LONGINES
CONQUEST HERITAGE
While 38mm is seen as a downsizing move for most brands, for the Conquest Heritage it’s a step up, since the 1954 original measured just 35mm. Last year’s revival offered time-only models with black or silver dials; this year, the collection broadens its palette with fresh dial colours and strap options. Pictured here in blue with an H-link bracelet (with alligator straps still available), it strikes a neat balance between vintage charm and modern wearability.
- PATEK PHILIPPE
- BLANCPAIN
- AUDEMARS PIGUET
- LONGINES
- HAMILTON
HAMILTON
KHAKI PILOT PIONEER AUTOMATIC
Not all pilot’s watches are big and stark. The Khaki Pilot line, inspired by the Model 23 pocket watches used by U.S. Army Air Force navigators during World War II, has been softened for peacetime to provide stylish lift to your everyday look. The stainless-steel case pairs surprisingly well with a burgundy bezel and eggshell-white grained dial. The matching burgundy leather strap, made using the coupe franc technique for clean and refined edges, keeps the 11.4mm-thick watch easy-wearing on the wrist.
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