I thought I had already seen most of Rajasthan on previous visits, with its ruined remains of the Mughal era, the wildlife, fine pashmina shawls, glittering gemstones, and the lavish palaces. But a recent trip to the luxurious Amanbagh and Aman-i-Khás properties in the heart of the royal state proved otherwise.
Located approximately an hour out of Jaipur, the two distinctly different luxury properties (just three hours apart by road), perfectly complement their ruggedly beautiful surroundings. Be ensconced in serenity and tranquillity at Amanbagh, while the Aman-i-Khás luxury wilderness camp captures the adventurous side of Ranthambore and its wildlife.
We kicked off our trip with the verdant Amanbagh in the village of Ajabgarh, followed by a stay at the tented Aman-i-Khás, a shorter version of the usual 6-night Camp and Oasis Journey that lets guests experience the best of both resorts in one trip.
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- UNCOVERING THE BEAUTY OF AMANBAGH
- AT PEACE IN THE WILD AT AMAN-I-KHáS
Uncovering the Beauty of Amanbagh
If you’re arriving in Delhi, the 275 km road trip to Amanbagh takes a smooth 3.5 hours in the property’s BMW X5, giving guests a chance to comfortably take in the landscape, away from the city’s usual grid-locked roads and blaring horns. The property is also accessible by train and car from other international airports, and even has its own heliport for private helicopter transfers.
As with each Aman property named after its location, bagh translates to garden in Hindi, and Amanbagh pays homage to the lush greenery that the luxury resort is built on, once a staging area for royal tiger hunts for the Maharaja of Alwar.
Built completely from the ground up, Amanbagh is nestled between mountains, designed with Mughal-inspired structures, rose-hued cupolas, and vaulted entrances. In India, it’s a rare opportunity to enjoy over 50 types of bird calls in complete tranquillity but is something you can enjoy everyday at the luxury resort.
Amanbagh also pays homage to the location’s history and its heritage, with two small, but significant gestures of respect. The first, guests arriving at the resort for the first time are greeted with a traditional Hindu prayer song, and the sacred traditional red thread (kalava) is tied on their wrist, to protect the wearer from harm and evil. And the second (in both properties), Aman moves from the usual honorific Sir and Ma’am to Sahib and Sahiba (both sets denote sir and madam respectively in Urdu), keeping up with modern times, while still respecting the area’s cultural heritage and traditions.
Setting foot in the property, you are immediately struck by the peace that the grand structures within evoke. Enter the palatial pink-walled courtyard that houses The Restaurant, Amanbagh’s main dining venue, the twin-level Library and Rooftop Terrace, as well as the Bar & Cigar Room, all while overlooking the 33m swimming pool and the lush resort grounds.
Amanbagh's 37 spacious Pavilions and Suites feature private pools, terraces, and courtyards (depending on the room category), promising ample space and privacy against a soothing background of mountains or the pristinely manicured gardens. Aptly named, the Suite categories are termed havelis, Hindi for spacious, Mughal-inspired mansion-esque private spaces.
My opulent Pool Pavilion (203 sqm) is flanked with its own spacious garden courtyard and outdoor private swimming pool. Inside, a king-sized bed framed by Mughal-inspired designs, a living area with a large daybed, writing desk, and a spacious dressing area with twin walk-in wardrobes struck that grand, royal feel. A bathtub carved from Udaipur’s green marble completes the royal touch of grandeur, sitting majestically in the centre of the bathroom.
Towering palms and eucalyptus trees surround Amanbagh’s palatial Terrace Haveli Suites (163 sqm), with views of the main pool or the mountains from their expansive outdoor balconies, as do the equally elegant Garden Haveli Suites and Courtyard Haveli Suites (each 125 sqm) with terraces to enjoy the fresh mountain air and al-fresco meals.
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The countryside surrounding Amanbagh is home to many cultural experiences of rural Rajasthan, including the ruins of the ancient 17th-century city of Bhangarh and Ajabgarh Fort, and the wilds of Sariska Tiger Reserve. Hike up to the historic Pratapgarh Fort, built in 1775 by the first Maharaja of Alwar, for its incredible views of the city below and surrounding countryside.
Don’t miss the resort’s late-afternoon Cow Dust tour for a drive through the surrounding villages – an eye-opening experience, seeing people living extremely modest lives and yet possibly being some of the happiest people you’ll ever see. Our driver even took us to his home for a cup of homemade chai and roti, welcoming us as honoured guests to their village, with genuinely warm hospitality and proud smiles.
And for a truly unique dining experience, the rooftop Chhatri (translates to umbrella in Hindi) is hard to beat. An ancient stone chhatri overlooking Ajabgarh Valley built specially in honour of Emperor Shah Jahan (of the Taj Mahal fame) comes to life with over 100 tealight candles burning brightly for the evening, dressed in bright red drapes, completed with the resort’s kitchen brigade serving a traditional multi course Rajasthani meal.
Wellness is a big part of the Amanbagh experience, be it through yoga, meditation, the Aman Spa’s range of specialist therapies and treatments, or Ayurveda, overseen by the resort’s in-house Ayurvedic physician. A short personal consultation is all it takes for him to curate a personalised Individual Wellness program to help you achieve holistic balance, through treatments like Shirodhara, the third eye oil massage treatment, or Abhyanga, a warm herbal oil massage to help restore equilibrium.
Nutrition is just as important as fitness and spiritual awareness here, and complementing the holistic wellness experience is Amanbagh’s organic Ayurvedic herbal garden. Sourcing ingredients from surrounding local farms, as well as the resort’s own organic garden and using traditional local recipes passed down through generations is the norm. The resort also offers guests cooking classes within the resort’s organic garden, in an open-air courtyard.
After two nights, we bid farewell to Amanbagh and head for Aman-i-Khás, which is over a three-hour drive that passes through the city’s main roads and markets, giving you a real glimpse of what life in Rajasthan today looks like.
- UNCOVERING THE BEAUTY OF AMANBAGH
- AT PEACE IN THE WILD AT AMAN-I-KHáS
At Peace in the Wild at Aman-i-Khás
Translating to ‘peace’ (Aman) and 'special' (khas) in Urdu, Aman-i-Khás is located on the outskirts of Ranthambore National Park against the rugged 692 km-long Aravalli Hills (possibly the oldest geological feature on Earth).
Offering 11 luxurious tents, with each one assigned a personal butler, this wilderness camp is in a class of its own when it comes to Indian safaris in the domain of the majestic Bengal tiger, capable of giving African luxury tents a run for their money.
Once a royal hunting ground, Ranthambore National Park has been a wildlife sanctuary since 1955 and is possibly the best place in India to see wild tigers in their natural habitat. Just 20 minutes away, enjoy safaris in the reserve’s open-top Jeeps, accompanied by Aman-i-Khás’ expert wildlife guides. Guests can also choose to experience the park with renowned wildlife conservationist Daulat Singh.
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Designed by Jean-Michel Gathy, Aman-I-Khás is rooted in simplicity and minimalism, inspired by the Mughal hunting era when travelling tents were erected to accommodate the princes during their annual, month-long forays into the forests of Ranthambhore.
Built on platforms, each 108 sqm air-conditioned tent features 6m-high canvas ceilings and lofty canvas walls, with elegantly furnished, spacious living, sleeping, and bathing areas, complete with king size bed, shower, and sunken stone bath. There is also a Mughal-inspired diaphanous cotton partition for complete privacy from the outside. The outdoor sundeck is ideal for watching the passing birdlife (the camp flanks a diversity of 350 bird species), including peacocks that regularly strut around the camp.
Minimalist, custom-made furniture complements the architectural concept, with Indian teak and leather details nodding to the colonial era, with warm-hued soft furnishings to match the cotton canvas, and antique bronze Kalash pots throughout the camp, paying homage to the region's artisanal heritage. An open-air Fire Pit located in the centre of the camp adds the final rustic touches, with local musicians gathering there every evening to sing folk songs.
Tinted cement pathways of locally quarried sandstone, walls constructed from local river stones, mud cladding, and an earthy colour palette come together to balance the natural surroundings with the built environment, as is Aman-I-Khás’ stepwell stone pool. Inspired by traditional bawadis (the ancient system of irrigation wells), the square-shaped sandstone pool, with concentric steps converging in the centre, is completely constructed with materials sourced from the local community. Come here at daybreak to experience the quiet peace and tranquillity that the camp is named after.
Everything has been designed to recreate the old-world feel, including the use of oil lamps with recessed bulbs and sandblasted glass as exterior lights on pathways to create a diffused and unobtrusive glow for wildlife to wander freely. The tents are dismantled each summer, and then resurrected late September for the winter season, matching Ranthambore National Park’s summer closure and annual winter opening in October.
Aman-i-Khás also prides itself on its fully sustainable and organic kitchen gardens, supplying fresh produce for its lavish dining offerings. Also on-site is a mushroom house and a small organic fish farm, using green waste as compost and only natural ingredients for insecticides.
But Aman-i-Khás isn’t just about wildlife. Experience the surrounding city of Sawai Madhopur’s rich culture and history with a hike up the majestic ruins of Khandar Fort 300m above the plains; or the historic Ranthambore Fort, situated within the National Park, one of the oldest in India and a UNESCO World Heritage Site, dating back to the 8th century, home to several famous battles of its time.
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