WATCHES & STYLE

Time in Shadow

by Charmian Leong
27 Dec 2023

Dark and compelling chronographs to drive your weekend wardrobe.

PATEK PHILIPPE 5373P-001
Even right-handed folks will want the left-handed 5373P due to its sheer collectability. Not only does it combine a split-seconds monopusher chronograph with a perpetual calendar (an uncommon combination), but it is also the first “destro” (Italian for “right”) watch the brand has made in almost a century. To accommodate right-hand wearing, the crown and pushers have been moved to the other side of the case, and the displays have been flipped as well. The 38.3mm case is crafted in platinum and houses the brand’s in-house CHR 27-525 PS Q movement.

BREGUET TYPE XX 2067
Modelled after the watches Breguet made for the French **** in the 1950s, the Type 20 and Type XX have recently made a modern comeback with improved designs and movements. The Type XX is the designation given to the models made for civilians, and in this generation, is the more vintage-styled of the pair. The 2067 is a high-frequency flyback chronograph powered by the calibre 7281, which also features an anachronistic but useful date window between 4 o’clock and 5 o’clock.

OMEGA SEAMASTER PLANET OCEAN DEEP BLACK ETNZ EDITION
The 37th America’s Cup will commence in September 2024 off the Spanish coast and Omega is rallying behind Emirates Team New Zealand, its long-time partner and defending champion, with a commemorative chronograph in matte black ceramic with white and turquoise accents. The ETNZ Edition is powered by the METAS-certified Calibre 9900, which boasts Omega’s Co-Axial escapement and silicon hairspring, but also includes a regatta countdown function. The watch comes with a special presentation box with three additional straps – one in rubber and two in NATO style.

LONGINES SPIRIT FLYBACK TITANIUM
As inventors of the flyback chronograph, Longines has ensured that its legacy meets contemporary standards by introducing its signature complication into its pilot-friendly Spirit collection earlier this year. Previously available only in steel, the brand has just released a titanium model – a welcome option given the watch’s hefty 42mm by 17mm dimensions. The sunray anthracite dial is highlighted with gilt edges around the subdials, numerals, and hands, with a black ceramic bezel insert providing extra shine. Available on a titanium bracelet or NATO strap, but can be easily interchanged.

HAMILTON JAZZMASTER PERFORMER AUTO CHRONO
Sporty, chic, and straightforward are the maxims behind Hamilton’s Jazzmaster Performer collection, and its Auto Chrono is everything you could ask for in an everyday, economical chronograph. The tachymeter scale on the bezel and perforated calfskin strap gives it some racing flavor, but the lack of bright accents typical of motoring-inspired tickers makes this a versatile option for more formal events. Beating inside it is the Calibre H-31 calibre with anti-magnetic Nivachron balance spring, with a 4Hz frequency, 60 hours of power reserve, and 100m of water resistance.