Wristwatch proportions have always been cyclical. From once-dainty proportions, the industry lurched toward oversized, technical wrist monuments before settling for a few decades in the comfortable 40mm to 42mm middle. Now the pendulum is swinging back again, but toward the new modern sweet spot of 38mm. It’s a size that exudes presence without bulk, offering a long-awaited option for slender wrists or those who want their timepieces more quietly assured.
Audemars Piguet answered that call in 2023 with the 38mm version of the
Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Selfwinding collection, expanding the automatic time-and-date lineup that had previously been available only in 41mm (or 42mm, if you include the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet RD#4 Universelle). The slight reduction in size does nothing to diminish the impact of the collection’s distinctive case architecture.
The octagonal mid-case is nestled between a slim round bezel and round case back, paired with open-worked lugs and a dramatic double-curved sapphire crystal, creating an interplay of geometry that rewards a second look. The dial, meanwhile, features a finely executed pattern of concentric circles punctuated with tiny grooves that catch and scatter light with every movement of the wrist. The balanced proportions of the 38mm case find an equally harmonious companion in pink gold.
Since its debut, the collection has paired the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet’s contemporary silhouette with a spectrum of modern hues. Now, two new additions introduce perhaps the most timeless palette yet.
(Related: Audemars Piguet pushes chronograph innovation further with the Royal Oak RD#5)
New for 2026 are two more 38mm models in 18K pink gold. The first features a black embossed dial, capturing the sultry, after-dark glamour that comes from a night spent in the company of people who dress for themselves, not for the room. Compacting power and elegance on the wrist, this reference is further accentuated by a black alligator strap.
The other reference is its silver-faced twin, softer in temperament yet no less refined, giving off a kind of sun-warmed ease of a terrace in the right season, finished with a brown calfskin strap with white stitching — a first for the collection.
Beating within both watches is the automatic Calibre 5900, Audemars Piguet’s latest-generation self-winding movement, first introduced in the 37mm Royal Oak Selfwinding as part of the collection’s 50th anniversary update. Noticeably more compact than the Calibre 4302 used in the 41mm models, the Calibre 5900 measures just 3.9mm thick, allowing the case to maintain a slim 9.6mm profile. It runs at a frequency of 4Hz and delivers a power reserve of 60 hours.
Turn the watch over and the movement reveals itself through a sapphire crystal case back, where the 22K pink gold oscillating weight takes centre stage. Its surface is finished with polished angles, vertical satin brushing, Cotes de Geneve, perlage, and chamfering.
As watch collectors continue to rediscover the appeal of thoughtful proportions, the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Selfwinding in 38mm feels perfectly timed. With their warm pink gold cases, nuanced dials, and elegant profiles, these new references capture the kind of everyday sophistication that belongs to no trend and answers to no moment but your own.
Discover more at AP House Singapore or the AP Boutique at Liat Towers.