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THE TASTEMAKERS
Get to Know Some of Singapore's Top Chefs Beyond the Kitchen, Part 2
by Anton D. Javier
10 Jun 2024
10 Jun 2024
These chefs and professional cooks are responsible for some of the best restaurants and most memorable meals you’ll ever have in Singapore. But outside of their kitchens, how do they eat? Where do they eat? We find out where these tastemakers shop for their essentials, what they cook at home, and where they go to eat in their free time.
- VASUNTHARA RAMASAMY, CHEF, CUTLERY OPTIONAL
- MAKOTO ARAMI, CHEF, AMI PATISSERIE
- VIKRAMJIT ROY, CHEF-OWNER, AHāRA
After appearing on MasterChef Singapore, Vasunthara Ramasamy went on to become a popular name in Singapore’s foodie scene thanks to her legendary thosais and private dining concept, Cutlery Optional, which celebrates South Indian and Sri Lankan flavors.
Can you share a core memory that involves food, which was instrumental in your journey towards cooking professionally?
I had never enjoyed rotis until I had them freshly made in rural Gujarat, India. I was a student in my early twenties and on a volunteer stint in India. The cooks of the ashram I stayed at made rotis everyday and the puffed rotis (phulkas) were soft, pliable, and delicate yet robust from being cooked over wood fire. The village mill was a stone’s throw away and everyone got ground wheat flours (atta) and spices from there. The wheat berries were also locally sourced. It was there that I learnt how the freshness of an ingredient as basic as wheat flour played such a crucial role in flavor development. It was also my first experience of understanding the ethos ‘Simple yet complex’.
When shopping for yourself, what are the essentials that always go into your shopping basket?
I cook a lot of Southeast Asian and South Indian food at home so red onions, small shallots, Indian garlic, Bentong ginger, and grated coconut are always in my fresh pantry. I rarely buy these at the supermarket as I prefer shopping at the wet market for all my fresh produce.
Is there a particular specialty food store or market in Singapore that you like to visit to source for more specialized ingredients? What do you usually buy there?
There isn’t one shop in particular, but I do a lot of my ingredient sourcing from shops all over Little India and Tekka Market that bring in produce from specific regions in Southeast Asia and India. From the outside, the shops look quite generic, but if you spend some time browsing and getting to know the shopkeepers, they’ve a treasure trove of information and resources. I get most of my seasonal produce and spices from these shops.
When it comes to food, what is your guilty pleasure? And when cooking for yourself, what is your go-to dish?
I love a good Hokkien Mee or Penang Char Kway Teow. When cooking for myself, I love soupy, comforting meals with some noodles or rice and with whatever is in my refrigerator or pantry. But on other occasions, a good ham and cheese sandwich or simple fried rice usually does the trick.
When hosting at home, what are the usual dishes you’ll prepare?
A biryani with all its accompaniments is a great dinner party dish. When made from scratch, it can take many hours to prepare and cook, but it’s a stunning dish that is impressive to look at and share. I like to make my own birista onions, biryani, and garam masalas for my biryanis so that they smell and taste extra special.
What are the top 3 restaurants/eateries that you frequent when dining out on your own?
Podi & Poriyal, Rempapa, and Le Bon Funk.
- VASUNTHARA RAMASAMY, CHEF, CUTLERY OPTIONAL
- MAKOTO ARAMI, CHEF, AMI PATISSERIE
- VIKRAMJIT ROY, CHEF-OWNER, AHāRA
MAKOTO ARAMI, Chef, AMI Patisserie
AMI Patisserie, which was founded by Chef Makoto Arami, started as an online pastry shop in 2021, but soon evolved into a physical concept under the Sarika Connoisseur Café Group. It now features a pastry-led multi-course menu that can be enjoyed in an elegant dining room.
Can you share a core memory that involves food, which was instrumental in your journey towards becoming a chef?
I grew up in our family business – my grandfather specialised in wagashi (Japanese confectionery) and my father evolved the business to offer yogashi (western-style sweets using Japanese ingredients), so I was always surrounded by pastries. Having lived on the second floor of our pastry shop, I used to wake up to the smell of bakes with treats throughout the day. I spent most of my time in the kitchen where my dad would bake, while I did my homework or played. Having watched my dad at work, my interest in pastries grew and my first lesson from him at the age of four was to handle fruits – an ingredient he often used in his creations. Subsequently, I learnt his signature choux recipe and baked my first choux when I was 15 years old. He became my mentor both in pastry making and in life as he encouraged me to keep an open mindset and venture beyond the horizon.
I come from a small town – Hikone in Shiga prefecture where everyone knows each other and most of our regular customers who visited my dad’s pastry shop are from our town. Just seeing how customers would be so happy walking out of the shop with their purchases, I realized how pastries could bring so much joy to people. All of this made me want to follow in my father’s path to become a pastry chef. After opening AMI Patisserie at Scotts Road, I can finally personally serve my guests and share these memories with them at the physical space.
When shopping for yourself, what are the essentials that always go into your shopping basket?
I make sure to always replenish my pasta and ramen supply. They’re my essentials whenever I cook at home. I’ve always had a love for Italian food ever since I staged in Europe, while ramen reminds me of home.
Is there a particular specialty food store or market in Singapore that you like to visit to source for more specialized ingredients? What do you usually buy there?
For specialized Japanese ingredients, I usually get my groceries from Don Don Donki or J-Mart for personal consumption. There, I mostly purchase Japanese eggs, tofu, and nattou to eat at home.
When it comes to food, what is your guilty pleasure? And when cooking for yourself, what is your go-to dish?
My go-to dish I make at home is carbonara with lots of cheese and eggs; it’s simply delicious. For my guilty pleasure, I like to indulge in yakiniku and late night instant ramen.
When hosting at home, what are the usual dishes you’ll prepare?
For visitors at home, I would usually make Italian food but with Wafu-style flavors – my go-tos are mentaiko or Napolitan.
I also set up a Japanese Yakiniku barbecue at home from time to time. Yakiniku is one of the best family-style food cultures in Japan, perfect for gatherings.
What are the top 3 restaurants/eateries that you frequent when dining out on your own?
Yakiniku JanJan, Shen Ji Teochew Kway Teow Fishball Noodle Soup, and Sushi Ayumu.
(Related: Get to Know Some of Singapore's Top Chefs Beyond the Kitchen, Part 1)
- VASUNTHARA RAMASAMY, CHEF, CUTLERY OPTIONAL
- MAKOTO ARAMI, CHEF, AMI PATISSERIE
- VIKRAMJIT ROY, CHEF-OWNER, AHāRA
VIKRAMJIT ROY, Chef-Owner, Ahāra
Take a deep dive into the rich culinary traditions of India through Ahāra’s multi-course menus, which are perfectly executed by Chef Vikramjit Roy and team. Chef Roy’s culinary expertise was honed through years of working in the kitchens of some of the world’s most renowned chefs like Masaharu Morimoto, Alvin Leung, and Heston Blumenthal.
Can you share a core memory that involves food, which was instrumental in your journey towards becoming a chef?
Growing up in a family where food was a priority and most talked about, my influences come from everywhere – from my mother and grandmother, to the various legendary chefs and kitchens I have worked in.
When I was a kid, whenever my mother would go out to work or run errands, I would try to cook an egg curry or a simple vegetable dish as a surprise for her. The joy on her face whenever she came back home to a homemade meal that I cooked – it’s a precious memory that’s forever etched in my mind.
When shopping for yourself, what are the essentials that always go into your shopping basket?
I never buy anything frozen or preserved, which is why I prefer seasonal produce to imported produce that’s available all year round. I also take my spices very seriously. I never buy anything powdered, and prefer fresh whole spices that I dry myself, or whole dried spices that I process and powder.
In my first months in Singapore, it was very challenging to get connected to good suppliers. I spent a lot of time sourcing and slowly building relationships with suppliers and delivery agents. It was during this time I realized that the best suppliers cannot be found on Google. Suppliers get a handful of specific produce and they choose very wisely to sell it to a handful of clients. Gaining their trust was another exercise that took some time.
Finding good Kashmiri morels in Singapore was also a challenge. It was only about five months ago that I came across a small shop in one of Little India’s bylanes that sold amazing Kashmiri morels. I spoke to the owner and found out he’s Kashmiri and has settled in Singapore.
Is there a particular specialty food store or market in Singapore that you like to visit to source for more specialized ingredients? What do you usually buy there?
I am lucky enough to have an excellent NTUC FairPrice supermarket near my place in Bukit Timah,. Here, I buy ingredients like potatoes, onions, and seafood. For beef, I go to Huber’s at Dempsey Hill or Maturo along Beach Road. For goat, I have this one shop in Tekka Market that’s one of the few places in Singapore you can buy goat meat from. There’s also another shop in Geylang Serai which also occasionally sells goat meat.
When I have time, I enjoy exploring Little India’s side lanes for spices and picking up something if it catches my eye. I also go to MahaMart in Clementi for local Indian vegetables.
When it comes to food, what is your guilty pleasure? And when cooking for yourself, what is your go-to dish?
I love cold cha soba noodles with tempura – any day, any time. I happen to enjoy cooking at home and I often make this dish. I use an easy tempura recipe that I cracked long ago, using soda and flour.
I also like to feast on Bhapa Maach, a Bengali steamed fish dish. This dish, eaten with hot steamed rice, is as comforting as a hug from my mother.
I have a sweet tooth, and in Singapore, I like to indulge in Olivia’s Creamy Homemade Cheesecake from Olivia Restaurant & Lounge, and the Onde Onde ice cream from The Ice Cream & Cookie Co.
When hosting at home, what are the usual dishes you’ll prepare?
I typically start with snacks including kebabs, chaats, kimchi, and crudites with dips. These are the perfect pre-meal nibbles as my friends love to drink.
My friends and I have similar tastes – we love biryani and tempura. I put together a cold soba with tempura, followed by a goat meat biryani accompanied by an eggplant salan (a spicy, nutty, tangy and aromatic Hyderabadi side dish served with biryani).
No meal is complete in my house without something sweet. I’ll whip up a homemade Shahi Tukda. It’s a dessert which originated from Mughlai cuisine comprising ghee fried bread slices soaked in a rose- and cardamom-scented sugar syrup, topped with creamy thickened milk. For something lighter, I’ll put together a classic fruit custard.
What are the top 3 restaurants/eateries that you frequent when dining out on your own?
I recently visited Ippoh Tempura Bar by Ginza Ippoh in Dempsey Hill and loved it. I also go to Bochinche along Club Street for great quality and reasonably priced Argentinian steaks. A Sunday favourite of mine is Komala Vilas on Serangoon Road for just three things – podi idli, Pongal, and filter coffee.
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