Get to Know Some of Singapore's Top Chefs Beyond the Kitchen, Part 3

HAFIZZUL HASHIM, Chef-Owner, Fiz

There has been a shift in the concept of fine dining in Singapore –  one that veers slightly away from classical European and instead, looks to concepts, flavors, and techniques closer to home. Fiz, helmed by Chef Hafizzul Hashim, is instrumental in this change as it focuses on menus that feature reinterpretations of Southeast Asian food. 

Can you share a core memory that involves food, which was instrumental in your journey towards becoming a chef?
One of the core food memories that inspired me to become a chef was a trip I made to the wet market on my own when I was 11 years old. That market is in Sitiawan, about 30 minutes away by bicycle from my hometown of Lumut in Perak. I cycled there with a list of ingredients my mum had asked me to get and remember cutting through rubber plantation estates and unpaved roads. It was the first time I went to the market on my own. I was really taken by the colors and aroma of vegetables and spices. I was also struck with a sense of curiosity and wonder. It prompted me to take my time to select each ingredient, and to watch vendors and buyers chatting away while exchanging money for produce. I bought so many things and I remember feeling like it was the longest bicycle ride ever to get home because the ingredients were so heavy! 

When shopping for yourself, what are the essentials that always go into your shopping basket?
Currently, I'm living alone until my wife – who is Japanese – and our daughters join me from Tokyo. Ours is a multicultural household, and this is reflected in the ingredients on my shopping list. At the wet markets, I look for fresh fruits and vegetables. I also pick up Japanese staples like daikon radish, shiitake mushrooms, and kabocha squash. For carbohydrates, we usually have rice and noodles like jasmine, basmati, and Japanese short-grain rice, as well as vermicelli noodles and frozen udon.

When it comes to proteins, our preference is for fresh seafood like local selar (yellowtail scad), snapper, and prawns, as well as Japanese favorites like salmon, tuna, and mackerel. I complement these with tofu and tempeh for Southeast Asian-style stir-fries and curries, and also buy silken tofu for Japanese dishes. 

For aromatics and spices, my staples include fresh chillies, dried spices like turmeric, cumin, and coriander, along with Japanese seasonings like shichimi togarashi, nori, shiso leaves, and yuzu. I use condiments like palm sugar, fish sauce, mirin, Japanese soy sauce, and sake for marinades and sauces. 

Is there a particular specialty food store or market in Singapore that you like to visit to source for more specialised ingredients? What do you usually buy there?
Geylang Serai Market is an important one. It’s here that you can get a large selection of speciality ingredients from Malaysia and Indonesia for preparing Southeast Asian dishes. I get my fresh coconut milk, herbs, some types of ulam (local and indigenous vegetables), and all sorts of spices here. At Tekka Centre, I get some spices, grains, pulses, and speciality ingredients for Indian cuisine. Lastly, at Tiong Bahru Market, I get fish and fresh produce. For Japanese ingredients, I go to Don Don Donki for its large variety. 

When it comes to food, what is your guilty pleasure? And when cooking for yourself, what is your go-to dish?
There’s plenty ranging from Malaysian-style Murtabak to Roti Canai from Curry Village in Tanjong Pagar. I also really love sliders and burgers for that satisfying combination of juicy meat patties with melted cheese and toppings. For local snacks, I like having Roti John for that combination of omelette and soft baguette, as well as the laminated curry A1 Curry Puff at Takashimaya. 

When cooking for myself I really just make something simple – an omelette with rice and some sort of sambal. I would sometimes just eat ulam with sambal. 

When hosting at home, what are the usual dishes you’ll prepare?
What I like to do is invite friends over for dinner right after I’ve been on a fishing trip. I enjoy cooking the fish that I have caught. I often serve my catch of the day in gulai lemak (a coconut milk-based stew) or with a sambal tumis with petai (stir-fried chilli paste). To complete the meal, I would offer a kerabu (salad) with nasi lemak and teh tarik halia (ginger tea). If I don’t go fishing and still have friends over, I would make simple dishes like nasi kerabu (a Northern Malaysian rice dish where the rice is coloured blue), mee curry, chicken rice, or khanom jin nam yaa (rice noodles with fish curry), and serve them with ulams (local indigenous greens) and condiments. 

What are the top 3 restaurants/eateries that you frequent when dining out on your own?
I like going to Rumah Makan Minang, Pagi Sore Indonesian Restaurant, and Sari Ratu for Padang cuisine. 

AKANE ENO, Chef, Ichigo Ichie

The Japanese restaurant scene, particularly fine dining ones, is typically and traditionally dominated by males, so Chef Akane Eno, who runs kappo restaurant Ichigo Ichie, is a rarity. At Ichigo Ichie, fresh ingredients take pride of place, resulting in seasonal menus that you’ll want to keep coming back for. 

Can you share a core memory that involves food, which was instrumental in your journey towards becoming a chef?
When I was a kid, my family always went out to eat on special occasions. I believe my keen interest in food came from these good memories, and I unknowingly began to think of food as a career. 

When shopping for yourself, what are the essentials that always go into your shopping basket?
Cold pressed juice, tofu and natto. 

Is there a particular specialty food store or market in Singapore that you like to visit to source for more specialised ingredients? What do you usually buy there?
While I don't have a specific store I regularly visit, I'm continually amazed by the diverse selection of ingredients available in Singapore after living here for nine years. 

When it comes to food, what is your guilty pleasure? And when cooking for yourself, what is your go-to dish?
I love mayonnaise. Whenever I cook okonomiyaki, I always drizzle a generous amount of mayonnaise on it. It’s simply the best! 

When hosting at home, what are the usual dishes you’ll prepare?
When friends come over, I enjoy creating communal dining experiences with dishes like hotpot or hand roll parties. However, I'm always open and happy to accommodate any requests. 

What are the top 3 restaurants/eateries that you frequent when dining out on your own?
Podi & Poriyal, Thunderbolt Tea by Boon Lay Tradititional Hakka Lui Cha, and Le Bon Funk. 

(Related: Get to know some of Singapore's top chefs beyond the kitchen, Part 2)

FRANCISCO ARAYA, Chef, Araya

Vibrancy and warmth are immediately felt as you step in at Araya, thanks to the South American soul that pervades the restaurant. Here, Chef Francisco Araya transforms humble ingredients into plated masterpieces, juxtaposed with beloved Japanese techniques and flavors. 

Can you share a core memory that involves food, which was instrumental in your journey towards becoming a chef?
I come from a family of chefs. My grandma was a chef and the owner of three restaurants. I have an uncle who was also a chef, and one of my first memories is when my uncle taught me to make pancakes, rice, and cazuela, a traditional Chilean beef stew made with potatoes and pumpkin, especially in winter. I was five years old and already experimenting in the kitchen. I always thought my mom and my grandma were the ones who cooked, until one day when my dad decided to cook to help my mom. I remember my dad saying that he would be cooking lunch, and he made something good. I was so surprised that the man of the house could cook, which motivated me to become a chef. That is how my journey started. 

When shopping for yourself, what are the essentials that always go into your shopping basket?
I like to add a lot of vegetables and seafood to my shopping basket. For example, I love Chinese broccoli, potatoes, some fish like snapper or whatever is in season, prawns, and some steak. 

Another essential that I always buy is seafood because I love eating it. Even on my off days, I always want to eat seafood, but not with too many condiments. That's one of the reasons I like Japanese food – not just because I used to live there, but also because I like the simplicity of flavors. 

Is there a particular specialty food store or market in Singapore that you like to visit to source for more specialized ingredients? What do you usually buy there?
I don't have much time to go shopping, but going to Chinatown's wet markets is fun because you see many things like insects, frogs, and fish. It is one part of Singapore that has a lot of personality, like Little India. So when I see something I'm interested in, I will buy it; otherwise, I like to visit a regular supermarket. I would probably order the seafood or beef from one of our suppliers for our restaurant. But you can definitely find fresh vegetables in these wet markets, like fresh garlic leaves, ginger, and water spinach. 

When it comes to food, what is your guilty pleasure? And when cooking for yourself, what is your go-to dish?
My guilty pleasure is a properly done burger with a good patty on brioche or potato bread. I’m not very particular about gourmet burgers, so I prefer those that are simple and easy to eat. 

When cooking for myself, I like to prepare steaks, typically ribeye. I also like to make bacalao, where we emulsify the fish with garlic, olive oil, and chilli. It's not easy making bacalao, but with my partner Fernanda, we will cook it together and enjoy ourselves if we have time on a day off. 

When hosting at home, what are the usual dishes you’ll prepare?
For our friends, we usually prepare either steak or bacalao. We also make one pasta. When it’s truffle season, we make truffle pasta and drink a lot of wine. 

What are the top 3 restaurants/eateries (in Singapore) that you frequent when dining out on your own?
For fine dining, Odette is a place I have been to many times because of the hospitality. They have impeccable service. I also like pepper and chilli crab, mantou, and Chinese dishes, so I like to go to either Long Beach or one of the Singaporean Chinese restaurants, especially because of my love for seafood. Another restaurant I like is Le Bon Funk. I like the vibes and the wines. Wine is a big part of my diet, and a restaurant needs to have a good wine list. 

ARAKI TAKESHI, Head Chef, Esora

Esora’s enduring popularity stems from the beautiful combination of artistry and Japanese gastronomy. The One Michelin-starred kappo restaurant, helmed by Chef Araki Takeshi, serves a menu that is inspired by nature, as well as the organic beauty and purity of the finest seasonal produce.  

Can you share a core memory that involves food, which was instrumental in your journey towards becoming a chef?
As a child, I enjoyed cooking and especially looked forward to cooking small appetizers for my father. I would often prepare a dish similar to a tamagoyaki roll. I realized I always found a lot of joy cooking food for people. 

When shopping for yourself, what are the essentials that always go into your shopping basket?
This is simple – chocolate! 

Is there a particular specialty food store or market in Singapore that you like to visit to source for more specialized ingredients? What do you usually buy there?
I usually go to Meidi-ya. Things I would buy there include Japanese rice and high quality vegetables from Japan. 

When it comes to food, what is your guilty pleasure? And when cooking for yourself, what is your go-to dish?
Guilty pleasure – that would be eating all kinds of spicy food with cold beer. When cooking for myself, it is straight-forward cooking, so it’s usually stirfried vegetables with anchovies, garlic, and chili. 

When hosting at home, what are the usual dishes you’ll prepare?
Probably something more homely and nothing fancy. I’d want my guests to feel comfortable and at home, so something along the lines of fried gyozas, tamagoyaki, and donabe rice. 

What are the top 3 restaurants/eateries that you frequent when dining out on your own?
With my wife and a young toddler in tow, we enjoy going to Bakalaki Greek Taverna, Tiong Bahru Bakery, as well as Tenya.