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WATCHES & STYLE
Watches & Wonders 2020: Cartier, Vacheron Constantin, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, A. Lange & Söhne
by Katherine Arteche
29 Apr 2020
29 Apr 2020
We take a quick look at the debut pieces in new materials and complications, including the return of Cartier's Tank Asymétrique.
- CARTIER
- VACHERON CONSTANTIN
- IWC
- JAEGER-LECOULTRE
- A. LANGE & SöHNE
Cartier pays tribute to Brazilian aviation pioneer Alberto Santos-Dumont with a limited edition collection, featuring four new eponymous versions. Each timepiece has its caseback engraved with Santos-Dumont’s early airship designs, starting with the “Le Brésil” in 1898. This is found on the platinum case with a silver dial, and comprises 100 numbered editions.
We enter 1903 with the yellow gold “La Baladeuse” (300 pieces), then a two-toned version (500 pieces) depicting the “n°14 bis” from 1906. The 1908 tribute to the “La Demoiselle” is the only model in the extra-large size (limited to 30 pieces).
Stylistic elements like Santos-Dumont’s famous accessory, the Panama hat, is incorporated into the dial and strap.
All the limited edition Santos-Dumont timepieces are fit with the manual-winding 430 MC calibre.
Cartier reopens the Privé vault, this time reviving the charming aesthetic of the Tank Asymétrique, an early design recognized for its unconventionality for more than 80 years. Today, the original canvas is pretty much preserved, save for a fresh dial design and new modern calibres.
The classic Tank Asymétrique now has serif Arabic numerals and smaller index separators. The movement is the manual-winding 1917 MC, which is housed in three case versions in platinum, 18k pink gold, and 18k yellow gold, and finished with ruby or sapphire cabochon crowns.
For the first time, a skeletonized movement resides in a Tank Asymétrique case, exhibiting an interesting aesthetic through the bare bones of thin hour indices, leaving ‘12’ and ‘6’ to guide the wearer into orientation. It offers two cases in 18k pink gold and platinum, the latter which also comes with a diamond-set case and buckle.
The Tank Asymétrique range is limited to 100 pieces each.
- CARTIER
- VACHERON CONSTANTIN
- IWC
- JAEGER-LECOULTRE
- A. LANGE & SöHNE
Vacheron Constantin
While we can imagine that this has been in VC’s playbooks for a long time coming, 2020 is the year for the manufacture's first self-winding tourbillon in a ladies’ piece.
Crafted in pink or white gold, the case measures 39mm in diameter. The large window at 6 o’clock displays the uniquely stylized tourbillon cage in the form of a Maltese cross, where the 60-seconds tourbillon underneath runs on the 2160 manual-winding calibre.
208 brilliant diamonds are set on the sides, lugs, bezel and crown, though a more opulent version is also made, namely the Traditionelle Tourbillon Jewellery with a diamond-set dial, including more than 40 diamonds within the tourbillon sub-dial.
Vacheron Constantin expands Les Cabinotiers with two new pièce uniques. The first is the Les Cabinotiers Astronomical, an exceptional timepiece that demonstrates 19 complications. The double-sided minute repeater model displays solar, sidereal and civil time, moon phases, sunrise/sunset indications, zodiac discs, sky chart, equation of time, day/night lengths, and a perpetual calendar.
All these are dependent on the 1731 M820 calibre, a manual-winding movement that measures just under 8mm thick.
The second pièce unique leads us to the Les Cabinotiers Grand Complication Split-Seconds Chronograph “Tempo”, which steps up to the plate with 24 horological complications.
Needless to say, this is VC’s most complicated watch to date. Each dial on either side shares real estate with a fair number of complications. Main hours, minute repeater, GMT, perpetual calendar, and the split-second chronograph are on one side, while a regulator tourbillon, moon phase, equation of time, sunset/sunrise, day/night, and power reserve indicator are on the other.
For an overwhelming number, the watch keeps the look minimal, with dials in slate grey and a brown alligator leather strap to complement the 18k pink gold case. The removable strap attachment system makes it possible to wear the timepiece with a dial of your choosing, making it easily reversible.
- CARTIER
- VACHERON CONSTANTIN
- IWC
- JAEGER-LECOULTRE
- A. LANGE & SöHNE
IWC
It’s all about the Portugieser for IWC this year. The Portugieser Automatic sees the return of the 40mm diameter, while the new Portugieser Perpetual Calendar is introduced in 42mm, down from the regular 44mm productions.
The Portugieser Chronograph is a sight for sore eyes, with new colorways of burgundy and dark green dials in stainless steel. It runs on the in-house 69355 calibre, a technical upgrade that was unveiled for the classic chronographs earlier this year.
Now the interesting juggernaut in this line up would arguably be the manufacture’s new Yacht Club Moon & Tide, which is the first of its kind in the collection to incorporate a tide indication in this sports watch. At 12 o’clock, spring and neap tides (tide levels that are in correlation with the moon’s gravitational pull) are indicated together with a double moon phase aperture, and 6 o’clock displays expected times for high and low tides.
The rose gold timepiece is paired with a dark blue dial and a matching strap in rubber with textile inlay.
- CARTIER
- VACHERON CONSTANTIN
- IWC
- JAEGER-LECOULTRE
- A. LANGE & SöHNE
Jaeger-LeCoultre
With Jaeger-LeCoultre, we see the return of the Master Collection, which comprises the Master Control Calendar, Master Control Date, Master Control Geographic, and Master Control Chronograph Calendar.
The Master Control Chronograph Calendar runs on the Calibre 759, a new automatic movement that is fit with a column-wheel chronograph with a vertical clutch. On top of the main hours, the silver dial displays a triple calendar and a moonphase indicator, which all run on a power reserve up to 65 hours.
All the pieces are offered in two metals – stainless steel and a new proprietary alloy in Le Grand Rose gold®.
We still recall the Reverso Tribute Small Seconds in burgundy when JLC unveiled it at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) last year. Having proven that red is a fad to have on the wrist, the dainty Reverso One now gets the same red wine treatment on a sunray guilloché dial.
- CARTIER
- VACHERON CONSTANTIN
- IWC
- JAEGER-LECOULTRE
- A. LANGE & SöHNE
A. Lange & Söhne
A. Lange & Söhne unveiled the Odysseus collection late last year, making it the brand’s first series in stainless steel, the first timepiece in an integrated bracelet, having been deemed the brand’s “sports elegance watch family”.
For 2020, A. Lange Söhne brings it back to tradition and unveils the latest Odysseus in white gold. The dark grey dial gives the watch an added depth, with the large day and date apertures on display.
The watch comes in either a leather or rubber strap, the latter option being the first in a Lange timepiece.
The Zeitwerk Minute Repeater gets a new blue cosmetic, with a dark blue dial and a matching strap. This iteration is available in 30 thirty pieces.
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